True Quality CleaningStraight talk about caring for fine garments & household textiles from an expert who calls it like it is. In plain English.

Caring for St. John Knits: from purchasing to storage

St John store front Every week I must get at least 20 questions related to St. John Knits.

Here's a summary of the issues that I typically address ...

Purchasing

Altering

Wearing

Cleaning

Understand the pros and cons of the 3 primary dry cleaning fluids: perchloroethylene (aka perc), synthetic petroleum and siloxane.
Understand the difference between water-based and oil-based stains and their impact on the cleaning process.
Inform your cleaner of any dry, invisible sugar stains (if known).
Entrust your fine garments to a specialty cleaner who prespots every garment (and does not post-spot or no-spot).
Entrust your whites, creams, and pastels to a specialty cleaner who guarantees that his dry cleaning fluid is odorless and crystal clear.
Inform your cleaner if you are cleaning one piece of a multi-piece white, cream or pastel ensemble.
Entrust your colors to a specialty cleaner who guarantees that his dry cleaning fluid is non-dye-stripping and will never fade your colors.
Entrust your fine garments to a specialty cleaner who guarantees that your trims (paillettes, rhinestones, etc.) will not melt, deluster or peel off.
Entrust your fine garments to a specialty cleaner who guarantees that he does not add or inject moisture, sizing or fragrance into his dry cleaning machine(s).

Finishing/blocking

Never press a knit.
Understand the concept of knit blocking.
Entrust your knits and cotton/spandex items to a cleaner who routinely blocks every knit or cotton/spandex item.
Insist on physical proof of blocking (i.e., proof that they actually completed the pre-cleaning measuring).
Blocking can reshape a knit - typically increase by one to one and a half sizes or reduce by a half size.

Restoration

Solid whites, creams and pastels can be brightened. You must restore all pieces in an ensemble to ensure consistence of color.
Update by changing the size of shoulder pads.

Reknitting/reweaving

• Darker pieces reknit or reweave well.

Storage - seasonal

Always clean garments before storing at the end of the season. This is your only protection against moths and their larvae.
Never store garments that are damp or moist.
Never store garments in plastic or vinyl bags or in polypropylene boxes.
For best results, fold knit sweaters and shells flat in breathable, chemically inert storage bags. If hanging, use padded hangers.
For best results, hang knit blazers on contoured plastic hangers in breathable, chemically inert storage bags. Avoid straight wood or metal hangers.
For best results, hang knit slacks over a strut hanger. Avoid hanging lengthwise using a metal or plastic hanger with hard 1/3 inch clips. If hanging, use clip hanger with soft 1 inch wide clips.
Do not overcrowd your closet.

Storage - long term

Always clean garments before storing at the end of the season. This is your only protection against moths and their larvae.
Avoid direct physical contact with cedar. Cedar is highly acidic and offgassing acids cause garments to become yellow and brittle.
Avoid moth balls or other herbal sachets.
Fold flat or hang in breathable, chemically inert storage bags.
Remove all acidic tissue. Use acid-free tissue only.

Traveling

Fold slacks, sweaters and shells.
Do not fold blazers. Stuff sleeves with tissue and bag in double poly.
Hang as soon as you check in.
Never hang/steam knits in the bathroom. Moisture relaxes the fibers and distorts the shape.
Never entrust your fine garments to the "hotel valet service (who, typically, subcontract their cleaning to a low cost provider)." If you absolutely need to clean a knit while you're traveling, seek out the best cleaner in the area.

For further information on caring for your St. John Knits, please click here.

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