We provide extraordinary care for fine
garments & household textiles
As the owner of a high-end
dry cleaner and shirt laundry, I'm frequently asked "who makes the
best custom shirts" or "can you recommend a good shirt maker?"
I've often tried to formulate a "best answer," typically involving measurement, fabric,
construction, service, and so forth.
That was until I came across a 2004 post on the Ask
Andy About Clothes forum.
In that post, Will Boehlke, style consultant and author of
A Suitable Wardrobe, a blog devoted to
fine men's garments and style, posted this advice on a thread
entitled "How to select a bespoke artisan":
"Advice. Start with shirts. Choose someone who makes a shirt
that you like and let him make the first one without your guidance
as to the 337 details you fear he may overlook. It's a shirt, not a
main battle tank.
After the first one has been washed a few times, see the
maker again for adjustments to the fit. Order at least three more
shirts. Go through the process again.
Six months to a year later you are set until either your
maker retires or you have a drastic weight change. Tell him the
fabrics and collars you want and pay the bills when they are
If you seek something simple like a gray pick and pick suit
you might be ready to visit a tailor at this point."
Interestingly enough, Alexander Kabbaz, arguably one of
the very best shirt makers in the USA, responded as follows:
"I think that is the most succinct, sage advice I have ever
read on this forum."
Ever since then, instead of providing my "best" stock answer, I
provide any client who asks about shirt makers with a copy of
How can I help you?
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